Historical notes dedicated to Aranci Square, in the heart of the city of Massa, refer to the ancient church of St. Peter at its center and already present in medieval times. Its first version collapsed in 1671 and was rebuilt on the same spot between 1697 and 1701. The position of the second St. Peter’s church obstructed the view of the Ducal Palace, which is why in 1807, at the decision of Felice and Elisa Baciocchi, Napoleon’s sister and Duchess of Massa, it was decided to demolish it. In this way the square was enlarged and took the name Piazza Grande.
Famous for its temperate climate and citrus cultivation, the early 19th century saw the square transformed and embellished with a double row of orange trees that still surround the center on three sides.
An anecdote from 1827 tells of Giacomo Leopardi and his stay in Massa. Writing to his sister Paolina, he said of the square, “As for next winter, I am now resolved to go and spend it in Massa di Carrara, which is 70 miles away from here;…That climate is excellent, similar to that of Nice, and perhaps better than that of Rome: it never snows there, and one goes out and walks without ferraiuolo; in the middle of the public square orange trees grow, planted in the ground.”
Initially, the orange trees chosen were in fact of the sweet variety and it was forbidden to harvest them. In fact, their distribution was allowed only to the hospital and charitable institutions. Later, due to frost and thus to a great loss of the fruit, it was decided to plant bitter orange trees, which were definitely more resistant to temperature variations.
The obelisk and fountains that adorn the square date from 1853, while the four marble lions at the foot of the monument, the work of Giovanni Isola, were added in 1870. The square has a significant history, especially during the Great War, when it was used as an air raid shelter. At that time, underground shelters were excavated at the four corners of the square, and during the work the remains of the old St. Peter’s Parish Church and the adjacent cemetery were discovered. In addition, the remains of two older, probably late medieval buildings of St. Peter’s Church were uncovered. Further excavations also unearthed part of the church’s Chapter House. The ruins revealed traces of a floor, fragments of the masonry of the transept, the base of an altar, the base of the bell tower, and several walls. Coming from the sea, the right side of the square is dominated by the facade of the Ducal Palace, the stately residence of the Cybo-Malaspina family. Today, the square hosts various shows, events, concerts, and festivals, including the Quintana Cybea, a historical reenactment whose origins date back to the 16th century and is held on the first Saturday in August. The event celebrates local history and culture, attracting residents and tourists alike with its historical reenactments, games and celebrations, and food and wine traditions.